Marfy Patterns Wool Winter Coat: Sleeves, Shoulder Pads and Sleeves Heads- Oh My!

Sleeves are one of those lovely little things that separate the cowards from the brave. I have many times been on the losing end of that equation. Even the most experienced of us have had to reset the same sleeve multiple times. They can just be brutal and sadistic little creatures with a mind of there own. Sometimes, if I listen carefully, after putting them in for the fourth time incorrectly, I can hear them cackle. 

Prior to the cackle, this is how I get closer to success earlier in the the process. This process works best with natural fibers. 

I start by machine basting the sleeve head and gently pulling the thread to create small gathers. I then place the sleeve head over my propped up tailors ham and steam with my iron. I let it sit for a while still draped over the tailor's ham. 

 

Next pin the sleeve in place using an absolutely offensive number of pins, matching all the seam lines and match points. With waxed thread, I hand stitch it using the back stitch. I prefer to cut my thread to only cover about 1/3 of the armscye. This serves two purposes. First, the thread is less likely to tangle and knot if it is this length and second, if part of the sleeve needs to be adjusted, I don't need to take out all the stitching. This is process is mostly just time consuming. Even with all this care, I still needed to reset the sleeve twice.

Once the sleeve is set and happy, I add in the shoulder pad and the sleeve head. I know that shoulder pads have gotten a bad reputation due to some over use in past decades, but shoulder pads can make a sizable impact in your tailored garments. They don't need to be lofty to have an impact. Even a small shoulder pad, adds structure and support to the shoulder area. These get pad stitched into place.

The sleeve head is a well kept secret in the coat, jacket sewing world.  It is used in the sleeve cap to help support the sleeve and reduce the likely hood of the bulk of the seam allowance, which is turned towards the sleeve, from showing through the exterior of the garment. While you can make both of these pieces, I purchased both from B. Black & Sons. One sleeve head was able to take care of both sleeves, but cutting in half. You may need two depending on the circumference of your sleeve.

  

Sleeve Head and Shoulder Pad in Place

Happy Sewing, my dear friends!