I have to admit, this garment had been put off after the lining that I wanted was too expensive to consider. Than I was stuck in an internal argument of should I buy that appallingly expensive silk lining, or should I settle and make it was something else. While the internal argument went on, so did time and here we are a year later, just starting to crack this nut.
Since it has been so long since we discussed this project, as a reminder, I am using Marfy 3511. I have only made small changes to the pattern to help it fit my body a little better. My bone structure is a little on the smaller side, so I shortened the length about 5", moving the pockets up along with this change. I raised the underarm 1/2" and reduced the shoulder width 1" to help get better lift and movement.
Marfy patterns do not include any seam allowances, so I traced the pattern onto my underlining, an unbleached cotton muslin. To mark the other side, I use some pattern tracing paper and trace to the other side. This was done on all pieces that require underlining which includes body panels, sleeves, top collar, belt loops and belt.
Cutting out the garment in the fashion fabric required all 3 yards of the 60" wide wool/cashmere I had purchased. This style has a very slight nap to it, so all the fabric needs to cut in the same direction. However, if it did not have a nap, I could have gotten by with much less by maximizing the layout. When I cut out the lining, I was able to get by on 2.5 yards and that was only 45" wide.
After attaching all the cotton muslin pieces to the back side of the fashion fabric with a single thread running stitch, the center back seam was sewn. I recommend using your "walking" or "even feed" foot attachment on your machine. Coating fabric is typically very thick, so this foot helps to guide the fabric through the machine evenly on top and bottom. Press the back seam when done.
Next, interfacing came in to play. For interfacing, I used a horsehair interfacing. This is my favorite kind of coat and jacket interfacing. It is sturdy and lasts much longer than your common polyblend pressed interfacing does. Coats take a considerable time and effort to complete, so I want it to last FOREVER.
For the back portion of the jacket, the interfacing in one piece, goes across the upper back ending at the halfway point on the back armhole. All of this gets pad stitched into place.
The front panels take the horsehair interfacing from hem to shoulder, arching over the bust so as to not flatten the lovely lady curve. Once again, pad stitch, pad stitch, pad stitch. Just put on your favorite show and settle in. The pad stitching gets closer past the roll line. Speaking of the roll line, this gets secured with cotton twill tape. It is cut about 3/8" short, stretched in place and pad stitched. The horsehair panel than gets twill tape pad stitched around the outer edges. Finally the front armhole is supported by a cotton flannel piece. It is secured with, you guessed it- pad stitching.
Attach the pocket bags. Finally, sew all the vertical seams on the body pieces. Now take a deep breath because you are done with the
most of the pad stitching.
Comments
Post a Comment