Classic French Cardigan Jacket: Sew Along Part 2
Much like sailing, couture "is so not the fastest way to get anywhere" (Summer Roberts, OC), but like sailing the journey and experience are far superior.
The second muslin fitting went well. I added about an extra 1/2" to the sides to achieve a more relaxed fit, but still keep structured feel. Due to this, the armhole needed another small adjustment. I can not stress how important the shoulder and armhole shape is to this garment. Paying extra attention to have this area of the jacket fit properly will truly make all the difference in overall look and feel.
Next came the usual couture techniques, thread tracing pattern pieces and stabilizing with silk organza. While in most couture garments, there is an underlining, usually in silk organza, to help the stabilize the garment and keep its shape, on this jacket the quilting acts in a similar manner. However, there are a few spots that deserve extra attention and reinforcement.
The front and back side princess panels have a small amount in the shoulder and armhole area for two reasons. One, the quilting does not often reach up into this area. Two, most woman carry things on their shoulders and the organza helps to keep the shape in this area and as mentioned before, shoulders are so important to this garment.
The second spot that I added the organza to was in the center front panels. For this iteration of the jacket, I added it to the entire front panel and also included a strip of organza stay tape to the center front. The will keep the center front hanging perpendicular to the hem. You want to be careful not to go overboard on reinforcement for this jacket. To achieve the proper look and feel, it needs to maintain a certain amount of "softness". If too much silk organza is added, you lose the cardigan properties and lean too far into true jacket territory.
After thread tracing the pattern pieces and stay stitching the silk organza into place, I started to quilt the lining to the fashion fabric. Everyone seems to approach this just a little different, but there are a few principles to be sure to adhere to. Start and stop 2" away from the top of each piece and 2" from the hem. Place each of the quilt lines about 1" apart. Due to of the variegation of color in the fabric that I am using, I started by basting the pieces in a standout color to help guide me along the grain of the garment. After quilting and sewing the vertical seams together, I learned an important lesson. The quilting will alter the fit slightly, making it just a little smaller. Keep this in mind when you do you initial fit.
Happy Sewing,
XO Kathryn
The second muslin fitting went well. I added about an extra 1/2" to the sides to achieve a more relaxed fit, but still keep structured feel. Due to this, the armhole needed another small adjustment. I can not stress how important the shoulder and armhole shape is to this garment. Paying extra attention to have this area of the jacket fit properly will truly make all the difference in overall look and feel.
Next came the usual couture techniques, thread tracing pattern pieces and stabilizing with silk organza. While in most couture garments, there is an underlining, usually in silk organza, to help the stabilize the garment and keep its shape, on this jacket the quilting acts in a similar manner. However, there are a few spots that deserve extra attention and reinforcement.
The front and back side princess panels have a small amount in the shoulder and armhole area for two reasons. One, the quilting does not often reach up into this area. Two, most woman carry things on their shoulders and the organza helps to keep the shape in this area and as mentioned before, shoulders are so important to this garment.The second spot that I added the organza to was in the center front panels. For this iteration of the jacket, I added it to the entire front panel and also included a strip of organza stay tape to the center front. The will keep the center front hanging perpendicular to the hem. You want to be careful not to go overboard on reinforcement for this jacket. To achieve the proper look and feel, it needs to maintain a certain amount of "softness". If too much silk organza is added, you lose the cardigan properties and lean too far into true jacket territory.
After thread tracing the pattern pieces and stay stitching the silk organza into place, I started to quilt the lining to the fashion fabric. Everyone seems to approach this just a little different, but there are a few principles to be sure to adhere to. Start and stop 2" away from the top of each piece and 2" from the hem. Place each of the quilt lines about 1" apart. Due to of the variegation of color in the fabric that I am using, I started by basting the pieces in a standout color to help guide me along the grain of the garment. After quilting and sewing the vertical seams together, I learned an important lesson. The quilting will alter the fit slightly, making it just a little smaller. Keep this in mind when you do you initial fit.
Happy Sewing,
XO Kathryn
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